We have just recently added to our website the sounds for all of our electric and air horns.
The link above will take you to our website and By clicking the play button below the part numbers you can play the horns sound. We have also provided links to images and other info on horns below the sound bars.
Our electric horns have no polarity. There is no specific positive or negative wire.
However, for air horns with a compressor, the polarity is important, and is clearly marked next to the terminals on the bottom of the compressor with the positive and negitive symbols.
All horns should be mounted with the open end angled slightly downwards and facing forward towards the bow of the boat. This allows any water spray to drip out and avoid damage to the sounding mechanisms inside the horns.
Try to select an installation position on the boat with minimum curvature and where only a small amount of spray will hit the horn.
We do have some spare parts available for the air horns such as diaphrams or longer mounting tubes. Please contact tech support for help with available parts.
The compressor should be mounted as close to the horn as possible.
We have tested the air horns with a length of hose up to 8 feet without any delay.
It varies from 9 to 11 PSI depending on your battery’s voltage output.
We do not sell replacement interiors for the AFI horns, but we do offer a 5 year warranty on the “XLP” models and a 1 year warranty on all of the others. Anything beyond the warranty period will have to be replaced with a new unit.
That model has been discontinued since 1994. The closest replacement we offer is our part number 10029XLP. The only difference is the mounting pattern. We no longer offer a horn with the same style of mounting as the SPTD.
We suggest bench-testing the horn and wiring it directly to a 12 volt battery. If it works fine when doing this, then the problem is most likely within the application’s wiring. If the horn still only puts out a clicking sound, that is usually a symptom of one side trying to draw more amps than the other which causes them to cancel each other out. Remove the rear cover and find the screw in the center of the sounding mechanism with a small red dot on or next to it. Turn that screw a little bit counter clockwise and eventually the horn should start to sound properly. If not, keep trying each side, back and forth, counter-clockwise or clockwise. If still no positive reaction after all that, it’s time to replace the horn.
It might need some oiling.
- Reverse the wires so the compressor “pulls in” rather than “blows out”.
- Insert a few drops of light machine oil/ sewing machine oil into the opening for the hose attachment.
- Let the oil swirl around for about 4 – 6 seconds.
- Then reverse the wires back to the correct position and allow any excess oil to exit. (Do not allow oil to get into horn)
If this does not improve the functioning of the compressor it may need replacing . The compressor should put out 9-11 psi.