To change out a BEP Czone module start by:
1. Ensure the Firmware on the replacement device matches the Device to be replaced. This link will explain how to do that: How to determine the firmware version of a Czone module.
2. Turn off power to module.
3. Disconnect all wiring connections then remove the faulty module.
5. If the module is an OI or a MOI remove the fuses from the failed module verify that the fuses are good and fit in the same locations on the new module Warning: Do not put the wrong amp fuse in the wrong location as the fuses need to stay matched to the load.
6. Mount the new module and connect all wiring except the NMEA cable.
7 Apply power to Czone system.
8. (If the unit is new this step can be skipped.) Ensure all the dipswitches on the module are switched to the off position. Once mounted temporarily connect the NMEA cable until all the indication lights flash once. Then remove the NMEA connection. This has now wiped any program that may have been on the module.
9. Set the dip switches to match the settings of the replaced module. Once the dipswitches are set plug in the NMEA cable.
After a short period of time the new module will begin to flash several times while receiving a copy of the program from the network and after updating will begin to functioning normally.
The firm ware info can be seen via the “Setting” menu on the Display Interface screen. By selecting the “Network” tab a list of all the modules on the network will be displayed. Select the old device for removal. The version number is the Firmware.
All new modules supplied from the factory will have the latest firmware.
If the Firmware is incorrect it will need to be matched or updated via the configuration tool. If the user has the configuration tool or is familiar with configuration tool they will be able to update the Czone system them themselves. Otherwise contact your nearest distributor to have the system updated.
Below is a power point on how to trouble shoot the CZone digital switching system. I went through this training an found the Powerpoint to be very helpful. so I decided to it add it to the FAQ page here.
If you do have any questions on the Power Point or the Czone digital switching system please leave a comment below. Also if you have any experiences troubleshooting the CZone system let me know and I will post them here to help other techs and Czone users out.
Before I explain about Y adaptors I want the readers to be aware that this is just a simplified explanation. Under real conditions at the dock and boat amounts of voltage and amps that can be drawn may fluctuate due to other factors such as tolerances of the circuit breakers.
Let us start with the 30 amp 125 dock receptacle and a boat with two 30 amp 125 volt inlets
Think of the dock as a pool of amps. A 30 amp 125 volt receptacle on the dock has a 30 amp pool available. The limit to what can be pulled from the dock is the circuit breaker on the dock. Normally in a 30amp 125 volt service it has a 30 amp circuit breaker. Now we do have one more limiting factor. The boat should have a main circuit breaker panel with a main circuit breaker per inlet . These breakers would matching the inlet example would be a 30 amp 125 volt inlet will have a 30 amp circuit breaker limiting the amount of amps the boat can draw from the dock. What a Y cord allows you do to is to pull from this 30 amp pool to your boat. You can have many combinations of amps drawn all adding up to a total of 30 amps or less. So 10 amps to one inlet and 20 to the other inlet or 15 to one and 15 to the other … If the boat tries to draw more than 30 amps from either inlet the 30 amp circuit breakers in the boats will trip. If the boat tries to draw more than 30 amps total between the two inlets the dock 30 amps circuit breaker will trip. Example 25 amps from one inlet and 10 amps from the other inlet 25 amps + 10 amps = 35 amps. The 30 amp circuit breaker will trip at 30 amps.
Next lets look at a 50 amp 125 volt dock receptacle and a boat with two 30 amp 125 volt inlets.
In this scenario the dock now has a pool of 50 amps with the docks limiting factor being 50 amp circuit breaker on the dock. The boat still has only two 30 amp inlets with the boats limiting factor being the 30 amp circuit breakers in the boat. The Y again will allow you to pull a combination of amps totaling now 50 amps from the pool; However the circuit breakers on the boat will only allow you to pull 30 amps per inlet. So you can have many combinations of amps all adding up to 50 amps or less So you could end up pulling 30 amps to one inlet and 20 to the other or 25 and 25 etc.…… If the boat tries to draw more than 30 amps from either inlet the 30 amp circuit breakers in the boats will trip. If the boat tries to draw more than 50 amps total between the two inlets the dock breaker will trip. Example 30 amps to one inlet and 30 to the other inlet. 30 amps +30 amps = 60 amps the 50 amp circuit breaker on the dock will trip at 50 amps .
Another scenario is the 50 amp 125/250 dock receptacle on the dock and a boat with two 30 amp 125 inlets on the boat.
This scenario is a little different. The 50 amp 125/250 contains two hot wires each containing 50 amp 125 volts. So in essence two pools of 50 amp. The dock will have a dual circuit breaker each rated 50 amp 125 volts. Again the boat still has only two 30 amp 125 inlets with the boats limiting factor being the 30 amp circuit breakers in the boat. In this case you have two pools of 50 amps . The Y adaptor will allow each 30 amp inlet to pull from one of the pools. The limiting factor being the 30 amp circuit breakers on the boat. . So in this case you can draw 30 amps per inlet or less, but no more than 30 amps as the 30 amp circuit breakers on the boat will trip. With the 2 breakers on the dock being rated 50 amps the main limiting factor falls on to the boats breakers. This set up will allow for the most power to your boat.
The male end of the 30 amp 125 volt EEL cord set was made a little thicker than the older style 30 amp cord sets. The 30amp ring currently does not fit over the EEL male end. The ring that does fit over the EEL male end is the 50 amp ring part number 500R. This ring is big enough to go over the EEL male end of the cord and when using the 110R sealing collar it will tighten up and seal the connection.
If the handheld remote will not pair with the spotlight, remove the battery cover and the battery. There will be 2 pins on one side of the battery compartment, as shown below.
These two pins need to be in contact with the underside the battery. They should not be bent upward, in contact with the side of the battery as shown below.
Also, verify that the PLUS symbol (+) or Positive side of the battery is facing up as in the above images.
Once the battery is installed properly, follow the instructions below for pairing the remote to the spotlight.
1. Turn off all power to the spotlight.
2. Press and hold the power button on the wireless remote.
3. While pressing the power button apply power to the spotlight.
4. After a few seconds you will hear the relay click and the light will turn on.
5. When the light turns on the paring is complete, release power button.
If the handheld remote will not pair with the spotlight, follow the instructions below to verify the spotlight is functioning properly.
1. Turn off all power to the spotlight.
2. Connect the yellow and purple wires from the base of the spotlight together.
3. While the yellow and purple wires are connected, apply power to the spotlight.
4. After a few seconds the spotlight will begin to sweep.
If the spotlight sweeps, replace the battery in the handheld remote. If the spotlight does not sweep, check all connections to the spotlight.